Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Days 7,8,9

So much for resting.  So as mentioned I decided to park it in Macondo Hostel in San Gil for a couple days since the city is known to be real
So much for resting. So as mentioned I decided to park it in Macondo Hostel in San Gil for a couple days since the city is known to be really good for outdoors stuff and the hostel is a common crossroads for international travelers. I met an Aussie, Brook, and a British couple, Tom and Monique who invited me along to do a bunch of cool stuff. So when I returned from the Botanical Gardens where I left off last the group asked me if I wanted to take a bus out of town to some park where there was a couple hundred foot waterfall you could hike to the top of and swim in the bottom of I was like "uh yep I'll get my boardies". That ended up being pretty fun and real refreshing at the pool in the bottom. The buses are quite hilarious, many different types but most of the ones that go to the more rural spots are not much bigger than a long van and have twice as many seats as they should for comfort. People rely on them quite a bit and I have yet to be on one that doesn't end up packed with people standing half way to the destination. Spent the evening getting to know Tom and some others at the hostel such as Jean and Ronan, an Irish couple who have been traveling ardundee the world for 3 years! Typical of most casas in Colombia, the living space in the middle is open to the elements with no ceiling so when it rains about every other night the hammocks have to be taken down and everyone walks around the perimeter of the living area where there is a bit of cover. So that evening the hostal was organizing a class 4&5 guided rafting trip on the Rio Suarez for the next day and again I obviously helped fill the vacant spots. I don't have pictures of that for obvious reasons but must say that it was really wicked at times but for the most part pretty similar to the Lower Yough in Ohiopyle on a high water day, only way muddier water. The last section of rapids was the best, evidenced by the fact that one of the guides in another boat got tossed out a good ways and the rafts were almost vertical at times. Later that night a few of us went out for what has been the classiest joint I've seen in Colombia yet called carne & carne. Man do they love their protein here which you'll never hear me complain about. It's like everything is made with milk and every meal comes with a meat dish. That night we again frequented the meat stick stand after our steak dinners making this local lady just crack up at the fact that some of these carnivore like Westerners such as myself had purchased 10 from her in 3 days. We had a good night having beers in the square and I soon found that the best beer here is Club Colombia. Hanging out in the square is really popular in the small towns. It seems like every town has a picturesque square plaza with a church and fountain crowded to look like a mini-festival is going on every evening. I finally tried Aguardiente, the popular Colombian liquor, but found that I'll stick to their rum instead because it was horrible! Tastes like liquid black licorice just like the Greek liquor Oozo, sorry Ted (my Greek boss who believes since it's of Greek origin it surely is the among the best in the world). That night a young local kid came up to us who wanted to practice English so Tom and I had a real slow 10 minute small talk conversation with him which was interesting. Today I went hiking again, don't ask me why, which was really nice because we walked along what looked like an old walled battle road / trail that connected two small towns, Baranchuro and Guane. Tom, Monique and I had an awesome lunch including fresh purified guava juice, a dried meat steak which was actually awesome and a banana like fruit cut in slices and fried. You can find these 'jugos naturales' at almost every restaurant here literally unless it's some little fast food joint. It takes a lot of fruit to make and just goes to show how abundant the fruit is here. This morning I had mango con leche (with milk) and it took a whole huge mango to fill up the 12 oz glass. On the way back from the little town on the bus a father asked his daughter to tell me something and then she asked me if I liked ice cream and of course I said yes. Then I realized she asked if I 'wanted an ice cream' as she came back on the bus with one for all her family as well as me. It was nice to feel welcomed by a local family and also gave me an opportunity to have a small conversation. Although basic I was relieved at the fact that I was able to tell them I wanted to pay, thanked them, asked what flavor it was and commented it tasted good, wihout having to repeat myself (which is typical for me) to be understood because the speak so fast. Later this evening I went to dinner on my own and also proceeded to speak in Spanish which was funny because unlike most here my waitor spoke a little English and wanted to use that. So I ordered and tried to converse in Spanish and he answered me in English and brought the correct foods I ordered. So it was kind of hilarious but I thought, hey at least we're understanding eachother. But on the language topic I actually still haven't had many opportunities to truly converse and would like to do private lessons which seem to be really popular for Westerners traveling in South America. Well I have heard conflicting comments, again, regarding the route north for tomorrow so I'm waking up early and hoping for the best. Hope all is well for everyone at home

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

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Trail to guave
Trail to guave

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San Gil town square
San Gil town square

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Waterfall
Waterfall

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San Gil botanical gardens
San Gil botanical gardens

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Days 5,6

7th day in Colombia, third day biking, 199 miles covered.  I spent that last day in villa de leyva actually relaxing and went out with the s
7th day in Colombia, third day biking, 199 miles covered. I spent that last day in villa de leyva actually relaxing and went out with the same group for dinner, again to a beautiful open air square of small restaurants and thought to myself I don't know if I've ever seen restaurants this pretty anywhere ever. I made a comment of what a coincidence it was that all the hanging ivy and flowers were in full bloom, thousands of them, and then one of the local girls said "they're always like that". My Mom would pay anything for a hanging basket with some of those in it to beat the usual 1 month that ours stay in full bloom.

So I did a fair bit of research before going to bed and the next morning took a bus for the first 10 miles straight up the mountain thinking I would fly to San Gil for at least half the way after that, based on the advice given from an Aussie hostel owner in San Gil, Macondo Hostel, where I'm staying now. Wow was he way off. Man I must say yesterday was the hardest ride I've ever done. According to my bike computer I covered 96 miles over 8.6 hours of continuous riding, and with breaks I was on the road for just over 10 hours. He had said that from Arcabuco to here was all down hill til Oiba. It was actually only down hill for 20 miles then climbs for the next 76. Let's put it this way, the map I have showed the distance as roughly 75 - 80, but due to the hills you can't see it was 96 miles. I'm beginning to realize that the researh I did at home as well as reading my maps is more valuable than anything I find out here. As you may see below the mountain views were spectacular, and I must say for the first 3 hours I was super excited everytime I made it to a peak to record a waypoint, take a picture, and fly down going over 40mph to the next. Then this got real old and I began reaching a state next to tears everytime a big downhill began, knowing that I would be faced with a wall of dotted yellow lines at the bottom. This happened about 25 times and was really mentally and physically challenging for the last 3 hours. I felt like I had just done 3 MS150 charity rides only with 60 lbs. on my bike. Lou and the Mikes (who I did that charity ride with) I wish you could have been here to suffer with me. About a third of the way through I smelled burnt sugar cane which instantly took me back to east coast Australia, a nice smell. About half way through it became very rural but still lots of tiny little venders selling water, beer and fruit on the side if the road. I saw an old lady selling bananas still on the huge stalk and thought what could be better to snack on at a time like this? So I stopped and had a 3 minute small talk conversation with her and after telling her I was riding to San Gil she got even more sweet and wouldn't take my money even though I insisted. Apparently she felt bad for me. Reminded me of Grandma W. when I try to pay her back for something and it becomes clear that there is no chance on earth that she'll take it. Later in the ride I stopped at a pharmacy and bought some ice cream for a break before making the last stretch. Speaking of food, what Karla, Doc, Christa and the rest of my pharmacy / nursing friends may find interesting is that I had no insulin all day and managed to not go high after eating 3 chocolate bars, a yogurt, a pastry, 2 bananas, 2 gatorades and 2 ice cream cones. Apparently I found the cure for diabetes, as long as you don't mind burning X amount of calories daily.

San Gil is pretty nice, when I arrived last night the town square was really hopping due to it being Fri. night. After a shower I went out to the square to finally get dinner and found what most guys would agree to be the ideal meal. A few people were grilling over hot coals festival style and I got two steaks, 2 little baked potatoes, an ear of corn and 2 beers for 9,000 pesos or $4.50. It's not always that cheap here but that was the best welcome this city could have ever offered me.b I forced myself to meet a few people and then allowed myself to die on my bunk for the night. I'm now chilling in a shady spot by the river in the botanical garden park of San Gil. It's really beautiful here and due to how many loud westerners (like myself) are staying at the hostel I found this a much better place to relax. So I found to a good rock to park it on and update the blog at. It's kind of like a little amusement park just with natural stuff. Unlike the parks at home you can tell that everything was here originally for the most part and then they just made a pool out of a spring and added cobblestone walkways. I'll be staying in San Gil for at least 3 days. It is supposed to be the outdoor sports capital of Colombia so I'm thinking I shouldn't pass it up. Well if you made it this far I'm impressed. More to come in a couple days.

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En route to San Gil
En route to San Gil

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En route to San Gil
En route to San Gil

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En route to San Gil
En route to San Gil

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Dinner in Villa de Leyva
Dinner in Villa de Leyva

Friday, September 25, 2009

Map Updated

Hey everyone I just updated my route map (link under profile) as well as my past 4 days of posts.  Take care and please email.  Mike

Days 3,4 - Villa de Leyva

The route from Ubate to Villa de Leyva was much better than yesterday's hike, despite a flat tire after just 6 miles due to a broken valve s
The route from Ubate to Villa de Leyva was much better than yesterday's hike, despite a flat tire after just 6 miles due to a broken valve stem. Luckily I was able to change out the tube quite efficiently and continue on through what is known to be the "pais de leche" (milk country). Lots of queso fabricaciones (cheese factories) and cows. I know I am butchering these Spanish words but hey I try. At one point I was moving quite fast down hill to turn a corner and have 5 cows standing in the middle of the country road mooin at me approahing as if guarding the path ahead. It's rare that an event makes me laugh out loud when Im alone but this did for sure. The ride had some really pleasant parts, such as a 7 mile stretch downhill which had me going 47 mph at one point, a speed I didn't even know my bike was capable of. I must say the bike computer Liz got me is a dream come true. I can see exactly what my running average speed is and easily estimate how much I need to pick it up to average over 10mph all day, which is a tougher goal to make Han I expected. Again I found myself fighting the sun as 5 oclock approached and the road became more and more rural. However after 65 miles (total 115 so far) I made it into the cobblestone town just in time to check in to the Casa Renacer, a great hostel in the hills outside town. I had a big meal at an impressively beautiful little place outside of plaza mayor, which happens to be the largest plaza in Colombia and 3rd largest in South America. A couple interesting observations; these restaurants are petty unique in that they are set up just like the historical colonial towns (which is what villa de leyva is and why it attracts many Bogota locals on he weekends) in thy you enter a doorway of a Latge stucko type building and then it opens up into a square inside with no roof, but ivy and plants hanging everywhere and all the tables and chairs I. The middle. On the sides of the indoor square are many small little restaurants with kitchens big enough for only 2 or 3 people, which all share the open air space. I saw 3 of these and thy are really pretty. Just when I thought I had my food ordering phrases down I tried to order 'pollo' (chicken) and realized that I was not being understood until corrected with a word that sounded like "pojo", as well as being laughed at by the girl serving me. I later learned that in Colombia the double L acualky has a J sound. Between things like his and how fast people speak my learning is moving very slow. I ran into 2 Brits who had recently come to this hostel in villa de leyva and joined them and a french girl for a hike in a park about 30 minutes outside the town. We hiked about an hour in and saw some waterfalls as well as watched some people pay $4 to take a zip line down into the park on what looked like a structure about as sturdy amyThs tree forts Ethan and I nailed together in grade school. It was really good to get out in the wilderness like that and gave me huge relief that I can't say biking these busy roads has done. We got a ride back with a nice local family in an old land cruiser which was really nice because it saved us from having to wait a while for a taxi in the middle of no where. Our hostel (Colombian Highlands - Casa Ranacer) is about a mile outside of the town's 'plaza mayor' so between walking back, getting cleaned up and heading back into town for dinner and then back again at night, us our spontaneous hike, ended up being about 7 miles of walking/ hiking steep grades yesterday. So much for my planned day of rest on my legs. Before heading to dinner we met up with another newcomer to the hostel, Luke from Colorado, and had some surprisingly great pizza at a little Italian type place. It was honestly better than most all the pizzas I've had in Italy. The power went out earlier, and I really needed to get on the Internet and charge my phone so when it was still out around 9pm I decided it was a sign I should postpone my plans to get up at 5 and start the ride North towards San Gil. Also contribuing to the decision was the fact that I was hanging out with a group of 6 others who due to English being our common language decided to use it primarily for conversation and wanted to stay out after dinner for drinks. It's quite interesting to me that you can have a group of people that informally decide on a language to use for the evening. Also, not surprising that the 2 Americans have nothing to bring to the table in this matter. Over the evening of Colombian rum and extremely slow service we exchanged with eachother what we do, where we've been etc. Some interesting topics arrose and for those who know me well would agree that they were the equivalent of sparks on a pile of gunpowder based on my personal positions. Such as a discussion over how evil the United States is as the imperialist nation that only goes to war for national gain, and a girl who is big into natural medicine telling me that I most likely became diabetic because I was not a nice person in my past and that I should attend some healing festival with her. Such is traveling I suppose. I did supress myself to a level beyond normal for me but at least couldn't help but ask the French girl how her country would be if it wasn't for the US in WWII and reminded her that aside from lives, the costs of the war were never repaid to the US whether be aid to the allies or reparitions from the axis powers. I also felt the need to share with my other best friend of our group that only being diabetic is quite the blessing considering there are others who are blind in a wheelchair etc. I said I am open to being healed, but if so my boy Jesus will take care of that. After we returned to the hostel I spilt my toe open on a small step while wandering around wih a candle. Go figure I would get hurt off my bike. So needless to say it seems I wasn't supposed to leave today. Well I apologize for the length but at least know that those reading clicked on my blog with an interest and aren't being force fed my email updates as I have sent out before. However please reel free to skim over my rambling. Hope everyone is doing well, adios.

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Villa de leyva national park
Villa de leyva national park

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Villa de leyva plaza
Villa de leyva plaza

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Day 2 - Zipiquira / Ubate

The next morning was rough.  Didn't get started til after 6:30 and leaving the south of the city traveling north was a nightmare with the tr
The next morning was rough. Didn't get started til after 6:30 and leaving the south of the city traveling north was a nightmare with the traffic. I would say close to trying to do the same through somewhere as large as Chicago during rush hour. The good thing however was that Diego who had helped show me around yesterday thought my bike trip sounded pretty cool so he joined me to ride to Zipaquira. I rough ride with the big city traffic but we stopped for some good local sweet cornbread which had a really long name I forget, and some of here well known ice cream. Diego headed back and I went to he famous 'Catedral de Sal' in Zipaquira which was quite impressive. To give little insight, the salt mines were at one time where Colombia and most of the world acquired it's riches before gold became so valuable, and the mines were really dangerous due to the explosive gases. So the workers Being a devout Catholic country built a chapel underground completely of the rock which was all over 80% salt. On my your Iearned that as proo of how valuable salt used to be, many Latin words related to value were derived from "sol" (salt) such as 'salary' which was bases on the salt commissions people use to be paid with and "sol-dier" which were those noble men who were given salt portions for their service in I believe Rome. They then expanded all of the mine caves into more chapels and the stations of the cross for people to come see. You could touch everything and taste your finger and sure enough it was salt. Also really interesting was that he negative charge from being surrounded by salt drains your cellphone and camera super fast.

After I continued north the ride got really rough going up hill a lot, having what seemed to be every semi truck in all of Colombia heading North and heavy rain. I found myself riding while the night approached, which occurs by 6:00, a situation ironically promised myself to never be in. At one point it was near 6 miles straight up hill in the rain. For those Pittsburghers reading I'm talking steeper than PJ Mcardle for at least 5 miles. When I finally reached Ubate after 48 miles I took the first hotel (and possible the only) and literally crashed on top of the bed til about 9 pm. It was a pretty crap looking town, but then I found the town square which had a huge cathedral like church which there should be a pic of below, and oddly finding a nice church just makes a town so much more welcoming. I only felt that drained here and there in my life and it reminded me of how I felt after Ethan and I returned from climbing Mt Shasta. I woke up just to go find some grub and force myself to shower before again crashing til 8 the next morning.

Day 1 - Bogota

I didn't get a chance to write much about my time in Bogota but it was good thanks to Andres and his friend Diego who showed me around the Z
I didn't get a chance to write much about my time in Bogota but it was good thanks to Andres and his friend Diego who showed me around the Zona Rosada, basically the upscale part of he city for the day. They gave ne the typical tourist treatment, which was much appreciated, tryingocal foods such as empenadas, a deep fried dough pocket filled with chicken cheese and some other fillings, as well as a few o the local beers. The beer is good but nothing real tasty of a craft brewery, a lot like the light lagers from Germany or a ywhere in Europe really which as many know are a lot like the US light colored beers with a bit less carbonation. As with any big city, Bogota gets a bit rough at night so I didn't have much of an incling to go out or hit he bars, but did get to have beers with a guy from Boston who was real interesting. Spoke fluent Hungarian and knew the country's history like he back of his hand. The little things that would typically take 5 minutes for me turn into 4 hour processes when traveling which 'Im used to, but still get frustrated with, so given that I got my cell phone activated, assembled my bike, found a good map and ate, I felt pretty succesful.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

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Tada
Tada
Just a quick note here before I leave Bogota.  As you can see assembling my bike was somewhat of a pain, but all is good now.  I met with a
Just a quick note here before I leave Bogota. As you can see assembling my bike was somewhat of a pain, but all is good now. I met with a friend of a friend, Andres, yesterday who showed me around some good spots in the city. Thanks Darren / Matt for connecting me with him. Hopefully I will hit Internet within the next few cities.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Delay

Hey everyone thanks for checking out my blog. As you may know I had to delay my trip a bit. Check after the 20th for updates. It looks like my GPS should work and will be formatted like the post below. You can become a 'follower' by clicking to the right so that you see when I make a post. Please email / facebook when you get a chance if you would like to keep touch.

Why I chose Colombia

There are many reasons I chose Colombia. Most importantly is that I was pretty set on South America, as I have never been to any country there and I have recently become interested in learning Spanish. I wanted this trip to encourage my language deficiency as well as have a great cultural impact. Through my research and contacting many other cyclists who have went through South America I found that Colombia seems to be everyone's favorite destination. Many claim that they actually felt the safest as compared to Venezuela, Ecuador and Peru. Ecuador actually has more kidnappings now and Colombia has had less than 500 per year from 2008 on. This does not at all mean that Colombia should be considered a 'safe' destination, however the decrease in violence and kidnappings in recent years has increased tourism and won favorable marks by many government and travel reviews. It should also be noted that I will be traveling for the most part on main roads and the government often has them guarded which is nice. Cycling is big in Colombia so there are bike shops in the big cities and the roads are supposed to be much better than in the other West coast South American countries. In addition to this, travelers claim that it is easier to find accommodations while traveling in Colombia and that the people are much more hospitable and welcoming. As many of you know I am quite a big fan of beautiful scenery, various climates and coffee and Colombia just happens to have some of the worlds best in these categories as well. I understand traveling to any where in South America in this fashion brings some substantial risks, but I just don't want anyone to be worried about the fact that I am going to Colombia things are going to be just fine. For those interested, I have posted below links to where I did most of my reading as well as 2 articles that give very detailed information regarding the security situation.

Colombia Information

For those interested, here are some sources of where I did my research.  The bottom 2 articles address the security situation.
Mike

Websites of others who have Cycled Colombia
http://mikesimagination.wordpress.com/the-scoop-on-cycling-in-colombia-ecuador/
http://rgparton.tripod.com/af.html
http://www.trentobike.org/bycountry/Colombia.html
http://www.tour.tk/on-the-road-0907-cycling-colombia.htm
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/locales/?geoname_id=48&doctype=journal
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/message.jspa?messageID=16166842#16166842
http://www.rideforclimate.com/journals/?p=102
http://downtheroad.org/southamerica/
http://www.roadjunky.com/guide/312/colombia-travel-online


Various sites for information on Colombia that I found useful:

http://poorbuthappy.com/colombia/travel/ - great forums and wiki style travel guide
http://www.adncolombia.com/ - good guide site with posts and updates from other travelers
http://www.roadjunky.com/guide/312/colombia-travel-online
http://www.paisatours.com/faqs.htm – English Site for Colombian Travel Info
http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1090.html

Articles with kidnapping statiscs:

 Through 2006 - http://www.bigtravelweb.com/travel/2008/10/27/kidnapping-statistics-mexico-brazil-ecuador-venezuela-more-prone-than-colombia/

 2007 & 08 - http://www.economist.com/world/americas/displaystory.cfm?story_id=13528083

Sunday, September 6, 2009

MotionX-GPS Waypoint: Wypt 002

Hello,

mDunkle uses MotionX-GPS on the iPhone 3G or 3GS and is sharing with you the following waypoint:

testing mobilex GPS after bike ride today. use kmz file in google maps

Name: Wypt 002
Date: Sep 6, 2009 4:45 pm
Location:
Latitude: 40.431181º N
Longitude: 79.972178º W
Altitude: 652 ft

Click on this link to display the waypoint in Google Maps. This link will be valid until Oct 6, 2009 2:29 PM PDT.

If you are viewing this message on your iPhone or iPod touch, use this link to view the waypoint in the Maps application.


There are two files attached to this email:

"Wypt 002.kmz" is a Google KMZ waypoint that can be displayed in Google Earth or Google Maps.

"Wypt 002.gpx" is an Open Standard waypoint that can be displayed by select mapping software.


MotionX-GPS Commonly Asked Questions:

Q1: What is MotionX-GPS?
A1: MotionX-GPS, available for the iPhone 3G and 3GS, is the essential application for hikers, bike riders, joggers, and geocaching enthusiasts. It puts an easy-to-use, state-of-the-art handheld GPS system on your iPhone 3G or 3GS.
Q2: Can I use MotionX-GPS?
A2: Sure! MotionX-GPS Lite for the iPhone 3G and 3GS is free and can be downloaded from the iTunes App Store here.
Q3: How can I display waypoints in Google Earth?
A3: Follow the directions on the Google Earth web site to download and install the Google Earth program. Save the attached Wypt 002.kmz file to your computer. Launch Google Earth, select File, Open, and open the saved Wypt 002.kmz file. You may also be able to display the waypoint by double-clicking on the Wypt 002.kmz attachment in this mail message.
Q4: What is a GPX Waypoint?
A4: GPX stands for GPS Exchange Format and is used to transfer GPS data between many GPS devices and applications, including Google Earth. A waypoint is a set of coordinates that uniquely identifies a geographic location.
Q5: This e-mail was forwarded to me and I can't find the attachments!
A5: Some e-mail programs do not include the original attachments by default when forwarding an e-mail. In this case, the sender must reattach the original files for them to be included.

Please contact us here with any comments or questions.

All the best,

The MotionX Team


US and Foreign Patents Granted and Pending. Fullpower® is a registered trademark of Fullpower Technologies, Inc. MotionX™ is a trademark of Fullpower Technologies, Inc. © Copyright 2003 - 2009 Fullpower Technologies, Inc. All rights reserved.

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